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S Barker

2024-01-06, 15:48:05
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Suspicious Price Drop

Started by Redeye, 21/06/06 - 07:52:21

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S Barker

The odd feeling that sometime goes with a shaft drive bike is not so much due to the shaft but to the "absence" of the chain   ???

When the bike is accelerating the torque reaction at the back axle tries to extend the rear suspension. The "Pull" from the chain at some distace above the swinging arm hinge line naturally cancells this out.

Take the chain away and you suddenly need an extra link to do the job that the chain does i.e BMUU's parralley thingy   :wallbash:

BMUU's rock when you blip the throttle  due to the crank being along the line of the bike rather than across it.
I wonder what happen if I click on this - Ooops

Ralph W

Quote from: Harv on  30/06/06 - 12:16:10
Barry and Ralph obviously rode bikes with solid tyres on wooden wheels....hence their interest in 'Carpentry Weekly'... ;)

What did I do to get dragged into this thread?  :-\ 
HOC No:-  Retired.

LazyRider

If you must have spokes, make sure the wheels are made of nice mild steel, painted.  None of the soft easily scratch aluminium rubbish.   Also a nice big trio of tyre leavers - tied up with string, then wrapped in a bit of cloth with your puncture kit, then tie it all to the lifting hoop on the back mudguard.    Your hand pump will, if you are sensible, be in its proper position under the side of the petrol tank.

Once you have located the puncture - nails from horseshoes are often the culprit.   Locate a suitable bush and lay the bike in the bush - with the puncture in an easily got at position.

Start by inserting one of the tyre leavers between the tyre and wheel, on the underside of the wheel - you must try to push the beaded edge into the well of the wheel.   This makes leavering
the tyre off of the rim on the upper side - easily accessible - of the wheel easier.   
When sufficient  of the tyre has been leavered off the wheel 20/30%, it should possible to pull the inner tube from between the tyre and wheel.   Locate the puncture - this may mean partly inflating the inner tube - affix patch, run you fingers round inside the tyre, to ensure it is smooth, insert the tube, partly inflate - just 5/10%, then replace tyre on rim.   Relocating the tyre on the rim, may be aided, if the tyre and wheel rim are lubricated.    There is normally a supply of oil on the engine or from round the primary chain case.

If you run the tyre slightly under pressure for a mile or two, this will help centre the tyre on the rim.  When satisfied the tyre is fully located, pump up to full pressure.,

If after getting 5/6 punctures in the same tube, it may be worth while investing in  a new tube.  This is mainly to avoid getting a puncture on top of a previous one.   Putting a patch over an existing patch, or indeed, stuffing the tyre with grass and straw, when the tube it shredded,  does call for rather specialist knowledge  that we do not have time to go into here.

Mark H

..or on a more modern enduro tyre...

Throw bike on side in disgust at getting a puncture. Stomp around a bit. Kick bike a few times.

Use large cable ties to ensure that the tyre doesn't pop off (likely bloody chance..) and ride back to the paddock. Slowly. Get drunk.

If cable ties don't work, use the strap from a ratchet strap. Ride back to the paddock. Get drunk.

Under no circumstances try and get the tyre off yourself. It'll hurt and you'll break all your fingers. The sidewalls are too stiff!

Back at home, take the wheel to a tyre place (if you can find anyone that'll work on an enduro tyre - they're getting very limited these days) and get them to do it. Laugh as the ambulance arrives for the chaps that has just broken his fingers. Eventually get the wheel back... amid curses.

Be glad that modern super heavy duty inner tubes are amazing pieces of technology that survive even the most ham fisted of manouvers...!













Team DNF is now just waiting for another arse kicking...

The Prodded Dog

First, fill with Ultra Seal.....................that's it
I can still do all the things I could when I was 21, but now it is with less teeth.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vtp4adNTP0Y

varonda

 Sod spokes--they're a pain in arse to keep clean and the only problem I've ever had with shafties is you can't ,absolutely a no no ,is try and drop down the gear box too quickly, from experience you only do it once---the back end locks up and turns your pristine
white M&S undies that wonderful Cadbury colour in the blink of an eye. So one answer appears to be that when we buy one ! give us a
choice of wheels --seems simple enough to me ----or is that too easy?  :beer:
If the truth fits --wear it

Mr NiceGuy

For those who hadn't read this weeks MCN here is the image of the next Varadero as per MCN.

I know I was born and I know that I'll die and what is in-between is mine, all mine.

Harv

..... looking at the pic.... if that comes in with 10kgs less than an 06 Pi, maybe with 120 bhp, WP suspension and a price tag of 8k I would buy one
Do not go where the path may lead, go instead where there is no path..... and leave a trail...!

.....and remember, "Light travels faster than the speed of sound, which is why some people appear bright until they speak"

Supadan

I think that looks horrible mostly because it seems to have both old fashioned and modern design mixed together.  The front light unit does not match the styling of the rest of the bike and I hate the colour.

Lenny: There's nothing like revenge for getting back at people.
Carl: Vengeance isn't too bad either.

My brother - http://www.justgiving.com/sponsorfi

Stonewolf

The front light unit is right off baby Vara
Get out and ride!

Varaderoguy

...and the back end looks like the Transalp.  Ho Hum.
HOC member 28728 - IAM member 326140

Stonewolf

Its better than that stupid PS job from Raptors & Rockets.
Get out and ride!